tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-22845950708840988792024-03-21T10:38:04.821-07:00Alpine JusticeClimbing, Paragliding, NaturePaul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.comBlogger33125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-88396737851958224942018-05-28T08:45:00.002-07:002018-06-04T02:43:11.433-07:00The New Year<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It's almost June but the year feels like it's just begining...<br />
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In January I journeyed to Cuba for some of the climbing... All my apprehensions about travelling to this place were completly unfounded. Though finding Gummi Bears or good cheese is next to impossible outside the all inclusives, the vibe in this houldout from a bygone era was as positive as a Jimmy Cliff show. Cuba is special indeed, the countryside and the countryfolk were accommodating, ingratiating and beautiful.<br />
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Tufas and wild exposure defined the climbing, which, contrary to popular belief, is not illegal.<br />
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Traveling to Cuba was a clinic in gratitude, the pace of life here can often stand still...<br />
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Lots of standing in line to get bread, or any other necessities we take for granted.<br />
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It's a bit tougher in these parts...<br />
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Muy Rustico!<br />
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But how about that rockstone!<br />
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Or this cave!<br />
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The skies were righteous too<br />
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Everywhere you go, people love Che. His effigy is ubiquitous, whereas, Fidel's is notably absent. What kind of a dictator forbids his image from being plastered all over the place like some cult leader? Castro, that's who. It's hard to deny the stunted socio/political <i>dénoument </i>of the last half century, but Cuba's sultry soul still seems to permeate daily life and imbue this land with a touch of magic found nowhere else I've been.<br />
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As if on Pavlovian cue, Colombia was on again, unfinished business is a real buzzkill. When I hear "failure is the first try" or "failing is part of the process," I cringe. Failing at climbing stems from a lack of preparedness or unjustifiably hazardous conditions. Either way, returning to finish the job seems the best option. Armed with new recruit, Dave Alfrey, Kieran and I returned to the Cerros de Mavecure to get 'er done. <br />
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The climbing was as fun as we remembered. Big runouts and 50 degree heat proved to be the crux.<br />
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This was the result - Jungle mania, both physical and spiritual.<br />
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This was also the result, a mad new line up Cerro Pajarito completed in the wake of last years' defeat.<br />
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Soonafter our return from the Jungle, we got the news that Marc-André was missing in the Mendenhal Towers so we punched it up there only to be greeted by snow and more snow. Eventually, we got out and spoted the location where Marc and Ryan paused for the final time...<br />
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The sadness of loosing such a precious human is a heavy as it gets...<br />
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Marc, you were the sweetest of spirits and fierce like an Alpine Ninja Cat<br />
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Do not go gentle into that good night my friends</div>
Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-61816502140395133512017-12-20T20:25:00.002-08:002017-12-21T14:37:14.473-08:00Viva Mexico Cabrones!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Not a lot of places bring the <i>Buena Vibras</i> like Mexico. With a glaring lack of regulations, this still developing nation has plenty to teach us about good living and having fun, even if it's only Tuesday.</div>
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Portrero Chico is gifted with an abundance of quality limestone which developers have bristled into submission allowing for a true <i>placer</i> experience. Don't be fooled, loose rocks, infantile climbers and tepid decision making could have you involved in a near miss or worse, faster than you can say <i>Andale</i>!</div>
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Kirk and Stef enjoying Yankee Clipper</div>
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Stocking up with my truck, note the fixed Rosary on the rearview. Guaranteed to prevent speeding tickets and rollovers.</div>
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Johnathan from <i>La Belle Province</i> sampling stupendous stone on the Outrage Wall</div>
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I took to solo climbing with a rope on the well equipped multipitch routes, it's always nice to learn something new.<br />
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Good positions, mediocre company<br />
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Sadly, climbing alone caused a mild case of Selfie-itis...<br />
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Look at me! I'm rockclimbing!<br />
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Spot the tiny climbers up left<br />
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It wasn't all lonesome days in the Portrero, I got to session with some sweet folks, old friends and new.<br />
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With Kirk at the Fitness Cave<br />
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Simon amidst mystic conditions<br />
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Clipping chains at the Surf Bowl<br />
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Look very carefully for Sunny and Paul abing off Time Wave Zero<br />
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Few days would end without a stern talking to from El Cabrito.<br />
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Or <i>Rico</i> Tacos!<br />
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Elotes! Imagine taking a perfectly good char grilled corn cob, then brushing on some of that orange liquid cheese you find at 7-11. Next, you mount the unsuspecting <i>Maiz</i> with Mayo, chilies and crumbled goat's cheese. Enjoy!<br />
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Folks live a bit more ruggedly than we do in Squamish. But happiness in these parts seems contagious.<br />
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Fixed taco trailer with satellite dish, check. Rubber.... nah.<br />
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These Mexican Pitons were a real highlight! Much like the Cathedral Spires in Yosemite, Mexican pioneers climbed the <i>Agujas</i> well before the big walls. These relics are from a 1962 ascent of this lovely tower.<br />
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Paul, a pioneer in his own right, keeps it new school<br />
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Chilies!<br />
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Cynthia dancing in the light<br />
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A wee bit of potential nearby<br />
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<i> Muy Amable</i> Mexico!<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-67664083353765700922017-11-15T20:54:00.000-08:002017-11-21T15:16:04.698-08:00Roadtrip Second Act<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfYia_Xx800MOYqQhqrHyWPBtsekUHdlv9rtFEwGPvZwN3JDFjpeqm1vw89OvPxbUjTsdjrOgI0tdaaN0ALO_WGHv0aS1f6U90t8cFBgumq96sxyr0ilCvJIXGT40bmdT6bnslO-c9xjp4/s400/IMG_7016.jpg" /><br />
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Just outside Zion, the high desert is deeply enchanted<br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjogigoK7TgSR0l9JTb4_TWUzVDGh41pD1heclg2nGLRL5cR0nFa_7tMF2HsCnyakJrtq6XwT4InBNF4AOxsSNXQ4B8XX2tsns7ZnemgDjjeysTiih6sfMiwdmAItIxeB5swqGvFaVX8hDU/s400/IMG_7027.JPG" /><br />
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At the gates of Zion; Soul brother, Sean Stanley Leary, came to rest in these hills. There's been a lot of loss and hurt in our little climbing world lately, it's always hard to accept and harder still to understand the heavy burden of life and death. Somehow, Trent Reznor's eerie Lyrics help:<br />
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<i>I hurt myself today </i><br />
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<i>To see if I still feel </i><br />
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<i>I focus on the pain </i><br />
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<i>The only thing that's real </i><br />
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<i>The needle tears a hole</i><br />
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<i>The old familiar sting </i><br />
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<i>Try to kill it all away </i><br />
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<i>But I remember everything </i><br />
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<i>What have I become </i><br />
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<i>My sweetest friend </i><br />
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<i>Everyone I know goes away </i><br />
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<i>In the end </i><br />
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<i>And you could have it all </i><br />
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<i>My empire of dirt </i><br />
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<i>I will let you down </i><br />
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<i>I will make you hurt </i><br />
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<i>I wear this crown of thorns </i><br />
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<i>Upon my liar's chair </i><br />
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<i>Full of broken thoughts </i><br />
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<i>I cannot repair </i><br />
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<i>Beneath the stains of time </i><br />
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<i>The feelings disappear </i><br />
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<i>You are someone else </i><br />
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<i>I am still right here </i><br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPnuDkpIpTM1sToXm8TiTdswRdR5seHqTBET7B748avRNcs4RS_4dpapfW-G4KitHTx3z4ZA2xzujePxa2djWxGUBgwFDaDaxwWLZJuQrZj4aFjcRWmTDjMYO_RrDfg7w_wE6aY5tTsHx/s400/Screen+Shot+2017-11-15+at+9.07.37+AM.jpg" /><br />
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Everyone has their moment during this brief performance called life, then, who really knows....<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgArjfRqkoRPVcqbqYXQEcZY9CHNt9XIyE9_WD8fl3ENSv4K9IlVnvx3JaWDrT2fw3s6TTV1K-kar5c1o8lTvMZ9v8ltzsJ3K8C82B7CvAf5aMDjSA6D5JYl5m9g3ZkblJ4hgwCi0XG15aW/s1600/IMG_7028.jpg"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgArjfRqkoRPVcqbqYXQEcZY9CHNt9XIyE9_WD8fl3ENSv4K9IlVnvx3JaWDrT2fw3s6TTV1K-kar5c1o8lTvMZ9v8ltzsJ3K8C82B7CvAf5aMDjSA6D5JYl5m9g3ZkblJ4hgwCi0XG15aW/s400/IMG_7028.jpg" width="396" /></a><br />
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Bridgedale, Springdale, Squamdale, Pleasantdale, Clydesdale, you get the idea<br />
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After lots of deep thoughts we got back to some rock pulling in one of the prettiest, most unique climbing venues in North America: Maple Creek Canyon<br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdnH0VpHKei9ng1xiNCC3JG9zn8loDwlr49IyeEENQ8j8TIwDmX8l5J6zcfn03nZLcVzyxb-eYkibeyD-tj6z4HnURTfHQCCfUNmdbB7_lXKpQqeumxVPthCcD-pdIsY6RAIQt3TbNbhri/s640/IMG_7074.JPG" /><br />
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The Conglomerate here, is as good as the mythical Mallos de Rigolos in Spain, but sadly not as huge in the freestanding tower kind of way.<br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPgUUL2hGJ1Cls_3PTlLIQDjNqKmLHq8DwUuoP-CWGMnerrGFyM29n_LyDVfRlZVUVtrVSFQKn0CW7QGrxZPYDTvHPK8neMa-ylIjA-BVEIEjPWeeW_IbVmSVBNWcsSXUGNzX9DlwA0Lf7/s640/IMG_7100.jpg" /><br />
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All the same, the stone is distinctive and a real pleasure to climb on<br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzIBnoeaYiJLdbnJnEBAx19lQdZ8HIKcWw_ZmkWayOqc-Jl0rP-zYFXn7GGmAycwGbnad8fGGYKFSS6hZOPjL-h7ENqeywK_mFz29GfJwQpKjEvMmV0dz5eUzMwNi_gyTGkVYQFFBnhMSO/s640/IMG_7066.JPG" /><br />
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Someone even practiced pictography here, waaaaaay back when. Is this some kind of sophisticated symbolism or just the work a prehistoric prankster with too much meat in her belly?<br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdbFOB7istkuX9Zur1AgPv-e8utk7UpIDPNc5olKjPs79BwGdft7W6z77D4RHjf2ba7E_4xqKO6r9TQrvuYzhlx2bizxPfVvnXj48kBqPF9TXLyvjDud_Iyl14EqusC-7nhaYynEuH5unF/s640/IMG_7135.JPG" /><br />
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Finally, we made it to the epicenter of flying in America, Point of the Mountain, where we met this guy. With a shit eating Cheshire Cat grin he vigorously shook my hand and said: "I'm Lance!" Lance went on to explain that the year I was born, he made the first EVER cross country hang glider flight from the nearby Camels. I congratulated him on still being alive. What a #boss<br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGfEjdhg_EACGHZxHW7vqj_8xuI7htRf4QguROv4yt0R9P5TyzTUsEmr9S321TMpWYJOQsS1pT3_djhtGRXslC1p7-G7vOM4lk_y-GfYrW3ADbU531M0aRrQfEAXfX6OAgaAzByU25JE4T/s640/Screen+Shot+2017-11-15+at+9.04.02+AM.png" /><br />
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Lance stepped into the sky with a poetic style that you can only comprehend when in the presence of a true master. <br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOpOHwyQFC7XHE_s5iuiAhfOJcvmluRNw3CJQk1o7Tk9E2v030l3wH1SMSQuG93cXV_dPR8uvW9YFsrQoaWMNMGRfrdjfdhGghVwc58M4ZLfAaRmT8nc0IWZ4mNENQMQUxm53I0GGYXjkW/s640/Screen+Shot+2017-11-15+at+11.51.25+AM.png" /><br />
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Point works as well as any site I've flown and inspite of the crowds and urban infringement, there is something special about this place.<br />
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<img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC0k5n0VwJtyhG5x5cIf1fJuOg7yBTyQtrWJ59J-cwlHk2dTleRstgyQMPjBR9NvQqVHyDT9D50M-ChB1BaIBCjfMVF9scC2riXw_Y2mWm9qcIAdwIsSNpbhL0qq9lIbXJHTMupd4HXLPU/s640/Screen+Shot+2017-11-15+at+9.07.12+AM.png" /><br />
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It was a great trip with fine company and good vibes all around... Thank you America!<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-75942180121446792442017-11-15T19:23:00.001-08:002017-11-15T20:52:11.669-08:00Roadtrip!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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On the tail end of Bishop's Highball Craggin' Classic put on by the AAC, I posse'd up with Cody Sims and Luke Neufeld to get in some dusty road trippin'. We tacked out a few Sierra pitches before leaving, because, <i>como no</i>? Look at that stone!</div>
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Look at those vistas under that moon!!!! </div>
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Next Stop was Vegas, which in my mind is always synonymous with sleeze. But the Vegas area does have some soul, as evidenced here by Brette, taking her lickin's on the ruggedly named burlnanza; <i>Monster Skank.</i></div>
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<i> </i>Just a few miles asunder from the infamous Strip, Marc-Andre hones his kite 'nique, hounded by Seuss, the dog.</div>
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Windsports became a theme on this roadie, we are after all, climbers who climb, but the skies whistled their sirenic melodies, tempting us to <i>glisse</i> above the rocks.</div>
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Cody soaring Jean's ridge</div>
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Perhaps the best bit of Americana we encountered on our journey, the Pioneer Saloon. Though the staff were <i>nouveau</i> tatooed and sporting coiffed beards and greasy crop tops, this place had an authenticity to it that has long been buried under the crisp, homogeneity of the nearby Vegas tarmac.</div>
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Bring your own moonshine, literally!!!</div>
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When these barrels get unlocked, it's sure to go off!!!</div>
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But I digress... After a skunking at Jean's Ridge we chanced an evening flight in the hills outside Goodsprings. The valley restitution cranked us hundreds of meters above the launch for one of the funnest flights I've ever had!</div>
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St. George, Utah was next. The limestone in this zone is hard to hold on to, in part because it's slick from traffic, but also on account of all the fist pumps you throw while climbing. Luke couldn't resist demonstrating the classic elbow down fist pump entering the crux sequence on this beauty.</div>
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More good Americana: Caffeine = Safety. So true...</div>
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-22184764166747188732017-08-01T11:30:00.000-07:002017-08-02T08:49:32.854-07:00Storytelling<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Telling a good story is hard to do. So often, humans get "inventive" and find a story where there isn't one. Digestible, compelling, dramatic, the more bullshit the better... In my raft guiding days, stories were important; good stories got you good tips and a Welshman by the name of Dirty Tim was our resident master tale slinger. The more tall tales Tim slung, the more money he made while the rest of us guides kicked dirt beside the river and watched the procession of guests slap another finski into Dirty Tim's dirty palm. Anyway, I don't love the modern media approach to storytelling and the fact that if you want to share your experiences with people, you need a "story." In the timeless words of Homer Simpson "It's just a bunch of stuff that happened." So here is some of the stuff that happened this spring.<br />
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Colombia: Coffee anyone? Locals brew coffee more like tea and imbibe this <i>Tinto</i> all day long.<br />
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Climbing on the Mesa de los Santos. Thanks to Netflix, we expected a stressful Cartel style experience but the vibe could not have been more <i>tranquillo.</i><br />
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We went to the opposite side of the Mesa and flew into Canyon de Chicamocha, the Earth's second largest Canyon.<br />
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Next up, the mysterious Mavecure Hills. <i>Cosmique,</i> barely begins to describe this place.<br />
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You could really feel the <i>Buena Onda</i> from the hill people.<br />
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Petroglyphs are my favorite!!!<br />
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Flying from mythical domes is a close second...<br />
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Climbing onto giant a waffle iron from the jungle ranks third.<br />
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I've never loved fishing, but I love to eat the fish. This Barracuda-type thing, literally jumped into our canoe and to defend myself (?!) I delivered a fatal blow with my paddle. Sorry buddy... I never got to taste this little guy, he was in the soup and down the hatch before we got home. Fishing, is likely how story telling began.<br />
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Or was it from mountain climbing?</div>
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Colombia is quite a place: Bogota street art is next level!<br />
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After Colombia was South Africa. This photo tells the whole story.<br />
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Climbing with my European friends was not like being on a holiday, rest day activities included: packing for the next mish, ferrying a load to the base of the wall or more commonly, climbing.<br />
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The crew halfway up the wall at a commodious bivi<br />
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We opened a new route on a big cliff made of Quartzite, the stone of Kings.<br />
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Rock quality, check! After sending this pitch, Seppi yelled down: "Paul, I feel naa-sing" Slighlty confused, I though my friend had morphed into the achetypal German nihilist. What he really was trying to convey was that he got threshold pumped.<br />
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This is Hilton Davies, he's the nicest man in Capetown, a South African climbing pioneer with more psyche than I had at 18, and more good stories than most will accrue in a lifetime.<br />
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Most of this country is made of Quartzite but at Paarl Rocks it's pure Granite.<br />
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This zone has never been in vogue compared to say, Rocklands, but no instagram = no worries, you'll have this enchanted place to yourself. As you enjoy the incredible freeclimbing here, remember, Nelson Mandela served several years of his 27 year prison term in the nearby village, just for being a brother. Slightly tougher than the Dawn Wall I imagine.<br />
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Never miss a chance to fly from a granite dome...Thank you Mama Africa!<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-62078478936413263012017-02-23T11:13:00.001-08:002017-02-23T11:39:06.438-08:00ICE!!!!!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jas Ammerlaan and Seba De La Rosa making the FA of the Spirit Bear icewall</td></tr>
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There is nothing so pleasant as ice climbing at sea level, so it comes as no surprise that my backyard is where I enjoy winter climbing the most. Thirty years have passed since a true Icepocalypse thwarted the village
of Squamish. Back then, it was straight shafts, leather boots and
bearded men only. These days at least some of the sisters have joined
in on the fun.<br />
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Katia Voyeur making the second ascent of "Depends -a- lot falls"<br />
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There were First Ascents o' plenty: Jia makes the signature move on the ephemeral and somewhat inappropriate "Gropper"</div>
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"Squamish Groomjob" pumpy as can be! </div>
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This beauty pillar, "Eagle Eyes" was spotted by Jia during one of many highway 99 scope missions<br />
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I didn't have to go far to spy this Squamish uber classic, visible from my deck, "Two minutes for hooking" is more fun than Hockey Night in Canada and delivers excitement until the buzzer sounds.<br />
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I jerseyed up with Tony Mac and Willy Stan for a repeat of this Boyd/Flett gem before the Coastal Zamboni finished it off two days later. The final pitch went down with the sun and I heard a few rare grunts from the lungs of Tony as he battled up the final steep Medusa of Ice.<br />
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We avoided the penalty box and enjoyed the superbe finish as the alpenglow kissed us goodnight (Will Stanhope Photo)<br />
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Jason K like a thief in the night, sneaking off Broadway ledge via some thin dribbles.<br />
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Pitch 1 of the Ultimate Ultimate Everything: Perfect neve and sticks (Tony Richardson Photo)<br />
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Jason seconding the Chamonix caliber goulottes (Jia Condon Photo)<br />
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Tony STOKED on the crux pitch (Jia Condon Photo)<br />
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It's always a gift when your heroes become your partners. After all these years Jia still wants some.</div>
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Hard to beat this position above the Fjord</div>
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Thank you Squamish and thank you my friends! What a season!!!</div>
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-22722948102716334942016-12-12T17:50:00.000-08:002016-12-20T07:43:04.040-08:00De gustibus non disputandum<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Preferences vary wildly for more than just food, but when it comes to sampling earthly delights, it's hard not to be a glutton.<br />
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First up on this fall's flavor of the month was the coarse ground stone of Joshua Tree. I took advantage of a friend's nearby wedding to sample a few dozen pitches at this most delectable desert buffet.<br />
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Climbing without a guidebook or partner had some drawbacks but the bite of crusty granite is always worth a nosh.<br />
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I met some new friends that complimented the cosmic vibe of this forlorn outlier of suburban LA<br />
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Next stop Bali: an organic fruity delight!<br />
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It was great to catch up with friends and loved ones in this far flung tropical sweathouse<br />
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The Sky Surfing was scrumptious!<br />
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Bukit has the most amazing winds, consistent enough to fly for hours - strong enough to make the top landings a spectator sport.<br />
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Ganesha! Balinese people love this happy Elephant man, me too!<br />
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Helen on the lookout in Nusa Lembongan<br />
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Random street man with a spiritual snack wrapped in Banana Leaf<br />
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Snorkeling with the Manta Rays at this beautiful rock arch - just a bit on the razory side for climbing <br />
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Next stop Thailand!!! This place has some of the most <i>exotique</i> flavor profiles on the planet. The climbing is ok too.<br />
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Thais make the yummiest food. What's there not to like about rotting fish or pork with paper?<br />
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There are a lot of unexplainable rules though.<br />
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This one is not open to debate: perfect orange slopers and pockets<br />
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Mouthwatering, no?<br />
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Ao Nang Tower with Robin and John. John proving just how <i>polyvalent</i> his Alpha pack is. A maritime, multipitch, Camera bag<br />
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Yahoooooooooo!<br />
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One of my favorite partners bringing in the catch of the day<br />
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Tony earning his Curry on the Heart of Darkness<br />
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You have to earn this dish<br />
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The not unprecedented Stalactite stem<br />
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Steepness guaranteed!<br />
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Trina joining us in the cave through the Thaiwand Wall<br />
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We emerged to Phra Nang Beach and got some knee deep Noodles!<br />
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A slice of Psicobloc<br />
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There are only a few areas on the planet that provide abundant sea towers and tepid waters for climbers to practice Deep Water Soloing. South Thailand rules this category, holding the densest clutch of these Karst formations found anywhere on earth. Sadly not all the Towers are open to climbing: Valuable Swallows nests used to make the infamous Birds Nest Soup are fiercely guarded by Machine gun wielding security guards. This stew, literally made from mucous that binds the nest together, is meant to improve potency but maybe some things are best left for the birds.<br />
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The Phalus Temple at Phra Nang - it's really a thing!<br />
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The Tiger Cave Temple was breathtaking! Nature plus Religion.<br />
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Robin on one of the best pitches ever! Pitch 3 Lord of the Thais<br />
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After a day of Climbing few places are better for <i>après</i> than Freedom Bar<br />
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Thank you Thailand!<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-26696154553907985912016-09-14T17:01:00.003-07:002016-09-15T08:52:22.201-07:00Greenland!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After a summer of an immersion in the joys of Squamlandia I loaded up the duffels and hightailed it to one of my favorite parts of the Planet: The Arctic Circle. Landing in Iceland our posse assembled to take in the flavor of the place.<br />
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Paolo, is always all in...<br />
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Vicky: funner than a drunken Monk<br />
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Matt is always ready for more<br />
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Ange is a rabble rouser<br />
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Cool as a cucumber, Julian keeps it tight behind the lense<br />
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We dined at a traditional Icelandic Restaurant and opened our hearts to embrace this strange new culture.<br />
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It wasn't long before Vikki got us kicked out of this building, not all Icelanders are as friendly as Bjørk.<br />
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Except maybe this guy: Rasmuss (though he's actually Swedish), First Mate on our passage to Greenland.<br />
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And his boss, the stern but psyched Vidar; captain of the good ship Aurora<br />
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Sailing across the Denmark Straight took 3 days and it was not only nauseating but moved me to tears when we finally saw land. As I found out there's no "TAKE" in sailing.<br />
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When we finally got down to the climbing it was really good! The rock was a mixed bag of quality and the views were so so as well.<br />
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Here's Paolo tacking out a 5.11 pitch on the First Ascent of the South West Buttress of Hidden Peak.<br />
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Vikki on the proudest lead of the day, somewhere around pitch 12. Does that crimper, gaston, highstep combo high above a glacial fjord strike you as a gentle romp in the hills?<br />
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Anyway, Vikki is badass, but on the second rappele (out of 17) her left rock shoe slipped off like that time Cinderella was in a hurry to leave the Ball. Needless to say, the route named itself. Note the sock/athletic tape setup Vicky rocked for 16 more raps plus 300 meters of down-scambling.<br />
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Paolo gunning for advanced basecamp which we reached well into the Arctic night.<br />
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Next stop, the unclimbed, unnamed peak in the center of the photo. Highest summit of the Mythics Cirque at a whopping 1450m above the sea. We took the obvious ridge left of the hanging pocket glacier.<br />
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Getting established on this feature proved tricky but the rest of the ridge was dreamy...<br />
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Ange getting after it!<br />
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Summi slopes<br />
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A lot of people could care less if the're first, I care alot, it's my thing. I don't care so much about being first to the top, but rather, being the first to consider, to try, to see if it's possible. <br />
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The walk off after a bivi on route, day two. Plenty to do here still... <br />
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After the "real" climbing, we managed a few pitches right out of the Fjord. This spicy number is named "Camperella" after a new Italian word Paolo taught me. Vikki Weldon Photo<br />
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Fun, engaging climbing and good stone. Vikki Weldon Photo<br />
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We departed from the Fjord (named Kangerttitivastiaq - no kidding) after about ten days of sessioning and cruised south 100km to the village of Tasilaq. The Bergs were a highlight.<br />
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The village was a sight for sore eyes and the village people were very sweet.<br />
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This guy invited us into his house for coffee, sweets and Whale blubber. The blubber was as you might expect chewy but nourishing. It's always nice to see how other humans do it!<br />
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One of the highlights of the trip for me was a flight I snuck in about an hour outside Tasilaq. You can see my wing's shadow at bottom left and our ship, the Aurora, is a speck just left of the mountain shadow at the head of the bay. The air was magic and I soared out over the Yacht and landed in a meadow just 20 meters from shore. <br />
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Greenland is stacked with potential, I can't wait for another visit! Thanks team!<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-15648814134090958432016-09-06T03:32:00.000-07:002016-09-08T05:52:53.445-07:00Summer in Squamdale!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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With a few unexpected turns in fortune, I found myself at home for an unprecedented month this summer. Squamish in it's prime is really too good, everyone knows it so everyone is here. Between the hoards and the heat, locals have little else to do than hang at secret beaches and run to the hills. Finding solace in the redneck 'pine is one of my favorite activities and poking around an unknown corner couldn't be more enjoyable with the company of good friends.<br />
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Checking out an unexplored canyon above the village with the remarkable Klemen Mali<br />
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We equipped this box canyon with 10 rap anchors, the crux is the walk out<br />
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Refreshing pools are always welcome<br />
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The eerie Ice Box Canyon with Will and the Gibson clan.<br />
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The focus changed horizons with Crosby Johnston new routing on the Fluffy Wall<br />
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Glamorous work it is...<br />
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Spot the climbers!<br />
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Crosby and Chris Trull wait for a break in the weather to beat the crowds new routing on the Chief<br />
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For a brief interlude, Helen and I headed to Port Renfrew where I discovered the panorama function on my camera<br />
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The far West Coast rarely disappoints, calling this marine park mystic is like saying Fred Becky has put up a few new routes<br />
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Fred, after establishing a few first ascents has segued into crushing established classics. When you turn 93, please remember: it's is not an excuse to to make Bridge your passion.<br />
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A day of Legends; Jim Sinclair and Fred remembering a climb they did together over 50 years ago<br />
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Another more spry legend on hand Peder Ouram. He keeps saying he's over climbing but he's out more days than most.<br />
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Back in action with Crosby on another project in the backcountry<br />
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Ground up!<br />
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<span id="goog_1496360240"></span><span id="goog_1496360241"></span>You just don't find this every day...<br />
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Tommy Gruber on the Ganesha Project...Stay tuned<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-44926819704279975332016-06-27T04:13:00.001-07:002016-06-27T04:18:50.018-07:00The Academy and around the bend<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Last week, I once again had the pleasure of joining in the Arc'tertyx Alpine Academy in Chamonix. It's basically a fondue of great people with good attitudes, who just want to get into the mountains and play.</div>
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Sometimes these same people get up to mischief...<br />
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Cham is great because in spite of the bustling tourism scene, it's got some character, like my favorite mountain shop, Technique Extreme - it's in the name.<br />
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All manners of different styles and techniques are used in Cham, like this guy who really likes his quickdraws.<br />
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People really like to go and get some here...<br />
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After the Academy, I jumped in a van with Jesse Huey, Vikki Weldon, Paolo Marazzi, Ines Papert and Seppi Pfnur (there were two vans in fact) and drove a couple hours to beautiful Cadarese, Italy.<br />
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Cadarese is so delightful! the climbing is on great gneiss full of splitter cracks and the local flavors are really rich.<br />
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This fellow was the real deal<br />
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Paolo was our ringleader, his specialty is skiing but he attacks the stone with a vigor that reminded me of myself as a young man. I learned a lot of new Italian words from Paolo...<br />
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Giulia Monego another bad ass skier who crushes rocks<br />
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Jesse on a rowdy groove<br />
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Vikki on the Arco with Matteo and Jesse<br />
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Yosesigo: Italian for Amazeballs! The splitters here were all time, this route Paolo is starting up, Super Simpson goes on my all time top ten list.<br />
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Ange and Vikki, chillin' at the crag<br />
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Riky Felderer, local crag developer and lensmaster.<br />
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Village life was as good as the cragging<br />
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A cheese truck would turn up when you needed it most.<br />
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But the easy pace of rural living had to come to a close, so we hightailed it for Courmayeur and headed to the Torino Hut in search of big rocks.<br />
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Big Rock Candy Mountain<br />
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The joys of the early morning carfuffle<br />
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Hut life was also civilized: Jesse stays updated and a French man expresses himself through Yoga<br />
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I teamed up with Vikki for a lap on the Trident du Tacul. The line called Bonne Ethique follows the most continuous splitter system<br />
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Jesse and Ines on the neighbouring Grand Cappucin<br />
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Stiff warm up for pitch 1<br />
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Vikki crushing the crux pitch 2<br />
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Again on pitch 4<br />
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You get the idea...<br />
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Climbing high above a glacier on a tower of rock dressed like a European is my life's passion<br />
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On our final day, Ines and I snuck in a flight from the Brevent.<br />
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The vistas from the décollage were majestueux! <br />
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From the landing field it was not too bad either<br />
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Europe is soooooooooo good!<br />
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Grazzi Mille!!!!!<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-57132965931512953692016-06-14T10:47:00.000-07:002016-06-14T10:59:11.527-07:00Working on Fiji Time<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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With an irresistible offer to work in Fiji, I saddled up the duffels and rounded up some of Squamish's finest braves to join a Hollywood production making TV magic in this sub-Equatorial haven of chill. Few places slow the tempo like the tropics, the stifling humidity and the "I don't need money, I just caught a fish and picked a Mango today" work ethic, really makes one wonder why stress is even a thing. Nonetheless, TV is a bustling business and a full production schedule of 12 hour days really made this outing feel more like work than pleasure.<br />
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Then again, one man's work is another woman's leisure. The boys fanning Nefertiti.<br />
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Will, hard at work under the scrupulous eyes of the Fijian OSHIA regulatory commission<br />
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Luke - Godfather of Fijian Rope Access. Hemp rope, check <br />
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The workplace was generally quite safe as evidenced by this dumptruck, Tony directing traffic<br />
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Our real life Director extraordinaire Rupert, scouting a trademark Fijian waterfall<br />
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Working in the Suva market sorting clams<br />
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An easy day of work; hunting Fruit Bats, these things actually taste pretty good when curried<br />
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Will and Luke enjoy a leisurely day of rock scaling. Not quite the Exshaw open pit vibe<br />
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This lady was working<i> for </i>pleasure. She's pounding the Kava root to produce a potent beverage<br />
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Kava ceremonies can go either way, drinking a few cups results in a mild buzz and tingling of the tongue, gulping double digit "high tide" volumes can lead to nausea, vomiting and a miserable hangover.<br />
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Buying Kava is a bit like a shady back alley drug deal, but with nice people! <br />
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Fishing<br />
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Fish on Chips<br />
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It wasn't all work, we met some pretty sweet people...<br />
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The locals had an infectious friendliness that was hard to deny. Kids grow up pretty quick though<br />
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This guy is an authentic 20th generation SUP'er. Why has it taken so long for the rest of the world to catch on?<br />
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Speaking of authentic, our man Tang's tribal Tattoos were not done to get psyched for the Tough Mudder Race series.<br />
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We had some fun on our scant days off. Here's Hoop learning to kite in strong, but irie laminar winds.<br />
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Du Surf<br />
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Sky Surf<br />
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Upper Navua Canyon: Mystique...<br />
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Luke soaring at "Hill 364" We named this site after the Donny's Ashes scene in Big Labowski "The men who gave their lives at Kasan, Londok and Hill 364..." Also, it was about that high above sea level- in feet.<br />
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Sweet Fijian air.<br />
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Sometimes Hill 364 was rowdy!<br />
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Orchids in Fiji are no big deal...<br />
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Thank you Fiji!<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-46507888495156064692016-03-29T10:56:00.005-07:002016-04-07T00:32:31.127-07:00From Bariloche to Bishop<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Since returning from the Kingdom, the whirlwind of helicopters, planes and meandering gravel roads has spun my scene like a Moroccan carpet maker.<br />
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I got a call to go on a location scout to what is perhaps my favorite place outside Canuckistan: Patagonia...<br />
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A week of flying around in a helicopter and eating way too much <i>Dulce de Leche </i>was almost too much to handle<br />
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Thankfully, the sights were ok and the rediculousness of western privilege was not too guilt inducing.<br />
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If you aren't getting molested by a<i> Guanaco</i> at the breakfast table you're probably not in Patagonia<br />
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The ubiquitous <i>Cancha de Futbol</i> and the obligatory sportsman lying down faking an injury<br />
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Even if these towers turn out to be chossy, their mere existence sings a song in my heart and makes the a day at the <i>Louvre</i> seem like a non-event<br />
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Thank you (again) Nature!<br />
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Next stop, the promised land of California, it's nice to see some snow cladding the Sierra. Not sure if this lovely dome is Fairview, but what's in a name anyhow? </div>
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This one needs no introduction</div>
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The Lee Vining Ice Demo was a blast, and brought a cacophonic crew to this otherwise peaceful canyon. Smashing waterfall ice to connect with nature has been a passion of mine ever since I was a boy.</div>
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One of the best perks of my job is testing new gear: Keep your eyes peeled for the Alpine mini skirt, so hot for 2017!<br />
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Granite plus Ice, what a combo!<br />
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Getting let in on a local secret, a new(ish) zone near the Hot Springs<br />
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The duality of California, one day Ice, the next Dunes...<br />
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The desert churned out some fierce winds, so flying was not an option.<br />
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Despite the joys of travel, tinkering on my projects at home is where I'm always happiest<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-36890938055824850552016-02-12T09:24:00.000-08:002016-02-13T05:54:24.270-08:00If it's not Scottish...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span id="goog_2036848626"> With a history rich in lore and a landscape that oozes charm, Scotland is hard to resist. Owing to peer pressure from friends Jon Walsh and Ian Welsted I voyaged to this woebegone outlier of the British Isles to check out the winter climbing scene. Not that I didn't believe their promise of fine mixed climbing, but I doubted how much value could really be squeezed from these hills, whose highest point is a piddly 1344 meters above the sea. I mean, we have trail heads higher than that just up the road, right? In the end, I was deeply humbled, not only from the stout climbing but by the predatory conditions that make climbing here unlike anywhere else on earth.</span><br />
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<span id="goog_2036848626"> Along with Ian and Jon, the team was rounded out by Michelle Kadatz, Paul Bride and young gun Marc-Andre LeClerc.</span><br />
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<span id="goog_2036848626"> Our first outing was up the supposedly gentle Green Gully. Locals assured us that conditions were modest, but hard lashings from spindrift had us feeling like a kilted, bearded man just handed us a hefty bag of frozen sand. Marc, who is no slouch, took nearly two hours on this pitch which was first climbed in 1906 <i>sans</i> frontpoints. </span><br />
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When you find yourself wailing in pitons and Egypting on WI 3 you just might be in Scotland...<br />
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These tools were invented for the genre of Scottish winter climbing by the "Fox of Glencoe," Hamish MacInnes. Wodden axes were prone to breaking, "Pecks" proved nearly indestructible and changed the game forever. Thank you uncle Hamish!<br />
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Sioux Wall, Ben Nevis, on a proper full conditions day. We triggered one eye popping slab avalanche on our way out of the <i>coire</i>.<br />
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Thankfully, there was a place we could find solace at the end of a hard day in the hills.<br />
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Of course the Snug Bar could only deliver at night, so we ran back to the highlands where snugness is guaranteed all day long. Here, Jon and Michelle feel the atmosphere on the aptly named Babylon.<br />
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The 'Stead imitating his surroundings at the highest point in Great Britain during "Big Wednesday"<br />
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The Unicorn at Stob Coire Nan Lochan - after two pitches we bailed off this elusive beauty, soaked and frozen. <br />
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Pitch one of the Unicorn, I took a fifteen foot, inverted whipper out of this insecure slot, there was a fair bit of cursing but after a break I got back on on and sent through the business.</div>
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Rest days came easily on this trip. Castle Stalker was once traded for a small boat during a dark night of eating boiled potatoes and heavy drinking.<br />
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Back in Nevis Town: Seasonal local, Ben Silvestre on the "birth canal" finish to Arc Angel</div>
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Marc-Andre cordless in big boy country on Darth Vader</div>
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No joke, the conditions we experienced during two weeks in the highlands were as fierce as any I have seen in my 9 trips to Patagonia.</div>
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Thanks team for a grrrreat mission!</div>
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-52732189728307059852016-01-16T12:51:00.004-08:002016-01-16T12:51:53.642-08:00Powd'Air<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Skiing has never been my forte. As a kid I schussed around on the swizzle sticks, cross country-ing my way over frozen beaver ponds and hillocks in Georgian Bay. I've always detested resort skiing. I was introduced to the genre at the pretentious yet pathetic hills of Southern Ontario where an accidental bump into someone's mint S9's in the lift line would lead to a belligerent rant about etiquette and "style." Nothing like a fully grown human sounding off about a scratch on their top sheet to make you consider becoming a climber... <br />
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Fortunately, the BC backcountry is still safe from this kind of condescension so that is where I will go. Also, it seems that El Niño is delivering the winter we've been wanting, so thank you (again) Nature, bring it!<br />
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Here's our Boxing Day posse atop the singularly named Sugarloaf mountain<br />
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Our glorious ringleader Ross Bergfuhrer<br />
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Even though Ross said he was not guiding that day, he insisted dropping in first, every time, something about "the safety of the team" <br />
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Here's Holly keepin' it tight in some terrain that felt a wee bit Alpine<br />
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Kev - A real MOG with a spirit that can barely fit in his giant frame<br />
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Helen - <i>Escarpado y Profundo</i><br />
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Heli Skiing: I guess understand why so many friends drop off the map from December through March<br />
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Holly enjoys<i> le powd'air</i><br />
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From here we could see the lineups for the great Boxing day sales in Whistler that we were missing<br />
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The <i>glisse </i>train continued with Yuki, Bram, Ashley and Helen.<br />
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More fluff...<br />
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Bram getting all <i>scientifique </i>inspecting a little roll I popped out<i> </i><br />
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Yuki <i>not</i> missing Japan even though it's soooo hot right now!</div>
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Thank you friends and thank you Sea to Sky Country</div>
Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-71391059408680543312015-11-19T21:59:00.001-08:002015-12-14T19:14:08.357-08:00Fungophilia<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
While everyone is table flipping happy over the arrival of winter, take pause for a moment to lament the demise of the funnest time of year: Mushroom season.<br />
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When the Pacific Northwest looks like this, the mycelium under the forest floor pump out a most unique fruit that brings joy to my heart and harmony to the earth.<br />
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Humans everywhere forage for food and in Squamish we are blessed with some world class bounty right under our noses.<br />
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Hunting for fungus is about as much fun as you can have with your pants on, much like climbing...<br />
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You can easily combo climbing and Mushrooming<br />
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'Shrooms come in all different shapes and forms; This one as you might have guessed is a Coral<br />
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This Amanita would take you to the moon if you dared eat it...be careful, you might not come back...<br />
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Boletus are my favorite, easy to identify and delicious when fried with butter<br />
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These Patagonian Boletes live in a remote valley, I never ate them, but hope to return now that I know they're good to go<br />
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The Robot Valley (real name), home to untouched big walls and fungus galore<br />
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This Reishi lived in a nearby forest before I deracinated it from Nature and had it dried for the purpose of improving my spiritual potency.<br />
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Mushrooms like to party! <br />
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They are also habit forming. Our crew of hunters has blown off several days of standard funhogging to score bounty like this. I fear it's becoming a problem...<br />
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Reformed climbers pontificating on the merits of the haul<br />
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Pines, Bolete and Yellow Foot Chanterelles so yummy!!!!!<br />
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I haven't summoned the pluck to see if these are actual Liberty Caps. In quantity, I'm told, these little suckers deliver the Neil Armstrong experience<br />
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Beautiful Morels on the approach to a cliff in Annecy, France<br />
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Unknown specimens in Mt. Robson Provincial Park. Oh so tempting, but we left them unmolested<br />
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Some of the most elusive mushrooms on the planet.<br />
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After a day of foraging in the Sierra Nevadas of southern Spain. Sending food!<br />
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I might not quit climbing to go full time mushroom hunting but I'm already dreaming of the thaw...<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-45918216418691798072015-10-10T21:04:00.000-07:002015-12-03T01:20:57.984-08:00Nope<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Chamonix... n'est-ce pas?<br />
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Patagonian snow mushrooms?<br />
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2000 meter rock pillars in the Karakoram?<br />
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Nope...<br />
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This my friends, is what Greg Child describes as Trango Tower sized experience "for the price of a twelve hour drive from Seattle and a $900 helicopter ride." <br />
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Welcome to Mt. Waddington. What a range and what a bargain!<br />
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Tucking in to this mega mountain only 24 hours after leaving home in Squamish was nothing short of miraculous. I'd first heard about this smash n' grab style when Mikey Shaefer and Colin Haley made a similar hot lap into the mythic Devil's Thumb for a long weekend sendathon of the Diablo Traverse. http://www.climbing.com/news/haley-schaefer-link-devils-thumb-peaks-2/<br />
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Not that I don't enjoy a good schlep, but sometimes life is a busy thing. So, instead of making the Olympian approach like my friends Jason Kruk and Tony Richarson (see their story here: http://jasonthekruk.blogspot.ca/2011/10/journey-to-mystery-mountain-part-1.html) I joined Ines Papert and Mayan Smith-Gobat in the whirly bird and dropped in for a quick tour of this incredible massif.<br />
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Here's the skinny on some of the crucial gear that was instrumental in helping us climb this Alpine jackhammer of justice.<br />
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Mayan with the BD Firstlight. Used as a light duty basecamp tent and a bivi bag for the three of us. We left the poles behind for the climb and wriggled into this golden beauty when the anemometer turned up to 11 and darkness caught us on the descent around the same hour. Light, yet belligerent towards wind, this rig kept us alive during a most rugged scree bivy ca. 3500 meters.<br />
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In the wee morning hours I led a frigid block and crammed numb feet into the comfortable and supportive Techno X. These Italian lace ups let you to jam like a bawse and edge like a ballerina, two things this route demanded. They even provided the requisite stiffness to kick steps up snow when transitioning to boots would have wasted precious time.<br />
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For outerwear I rolled with the Gamma Rock Pant seen below on the tight package that is Austin Ross (during a separate mission).<br />
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You can really see how this piece cups the body yet allows for complete freedom of expression.<br />
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I use these durable (reinforced knee and derière) lightweight (340 grams) pants for a plethora of applications: In summer and winter for rock, ice and mixed as well as for pubwork above treeline and in select European locations. <br />
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Thanks Ladies for a great mission!!!!</div>
Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-8255715558187570902015-08-21T13:36:00.001-07:002015-08-21T18:29:20.748-07:00Sweet Kyle<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Loosing a friend is always rugged. It's easy to ignore the brevity of our existence, but when a brother falls, the unthinkable slaps us with a cold, opened hand. Kyle's death is beyond tragic, but in life he found meaning through his community, sky flying and the mountains. This was his destiny... <br />
Risk taking is integral to humanness, if you never stick your neck out you never fully understand the value of self or others. It's true in the hunt for daily bread, and in relationships. Kyle once told me that his way of dealing with a negative person was to go out on a limb and "hit them with the Love." Words to live by my friends...<br />
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Kyle, into the wind of the Thunderbird<br />
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Going outside is a good remedy for heartache so the Sunshine Coast pulled Helen and I to her shores.<br />
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The Eldred Valley is a zone I've always wanted to visit - being amongst these backcountry domes was good for the soul<br />
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Bear Tooth Spire <br />
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Colin Dionne pioneered this area for climbers and like Kyle was killed in an aviation accident<br />
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West Main Wall, an honest 800 meters of granite<br />
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Carag-Dur, 600 meters high and home to only one route: "Funk Soul Brother" established by Matt Maddaloni and the late mountain maestro, John Millar<br />
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Boulders o' plenty</div>
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The Golden Boy at your service</div>
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A place called Huber Country</div>
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Without doing any climbing we left for the Island of Savary. </div>
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Savary has a Swiss Family Robinson feel to it and we camped on the beach by these fun driftwood shelters.</div>
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Kyle visited Savary last September and noted the flying potential off these sea banks. We woke to rain so my Yak stayed in the bag. Here's Kyle with his signature birdman launch </div>
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Next up was a hike out to the Skookumchuck Narrows where these paddlers enjoyed a miracle of nature: The sea transmogrifies into a river in this fjordal constriction.</div>
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Refreshed, we returned home and finally felt like doing some climbing</div>
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Helen enjoying Sunset Strip</div>
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That night, we hit the music fest where the eight piece, Slightly Stoopid threw down a five alarm set infused with an irieness that makes you wanna get up and shake your booty. </div>
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Kyle, I wish you could have come dancing with us...</div>
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-26532381427897840642015-07-26T20:20:00.001-07:002015-10-22T10:23:49.795-07:00Rollin to the Rockies<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
After a protracted stint of the work I jumped into a car named <i>Guillone, </i>with Jason Ammerlaan and Tony McLane. Destination: Cowboy country. First stop Jasper, Alberta to check out the fabled quartzite walls of the Tonquin. <br />
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Bivi at the stables<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvgxMz3YzdDd_GmByojLOsnRyHX-gG4DLnPHedF-ewG-0ywEqhoY0dTwDRAyB5eDxzYD6gsMUD6qcEORzWnFA1dOuwcJYc02kpkp8fuYE0dmDdeiRCRekvuOnU2NBvAwgtVhAE49TctRY/s1600/P7170014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbvgxMz3YzdDd_GmByojLOsnRyHX-gG4DLnPHedF-ewG-0ywEqhoY0dTwDRAyB5eDxzYD6gsMUD6qcEORzWnFA1dOuwcJYc02kpkp8fuYE0dmDdeiRCRekvuOnU2NBvAwgtVhAE49TctRY/s400/P7170014.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
Bivi in the rain/snow after walking 25km<br />
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The 25km hike was nice enough with small bouts of snow but we made it to the base of the Ramparts with daylight to spare. <br />
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It was as though the mountains were trying to tell us something; rain all night and snow to 2300m. We turned around and hiked <i>back</i> out 25 more km to the comfort of<i> Guillone.</i><br />
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We drove down the road to the promised land of Lake Louise where sun and solid rock befriended us once again.<br />
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Next Stop Mt. Louis, the horn o' plenty </div>
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We chose a route on the north side of the bohemoth, inspired by this very photo. The itinerary was clear...<br />
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A comfortable Bivi <br />
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After approaching at the crack of noon and making a nice bivi overlooking 40 mile creek, we got down to the business of getting amongst.<br />
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The stone was good overall and the climbing not extreme, with good protection almost throughout<br />
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Testing holds on new ground in the Rockies is still <i>de riggeur</i><br />
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As if to make us pay our dues, we got hammered by no less than three rain pulses, the first of which delivered lightning strikes within one Mississippi of our position and gave us all a reason to find religion.<br />
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Jason starting up another beauty pitch just after the first rains.<br />
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Tony, a man who does not get too stressed about a little lightning<br />
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It was Tony's birthday so we promised him the crux...<br />
He gave it a good effort but had to hang a couple times...solid 5.11. I recon if he didn't bring the hammer, pitons, and the #4&#5 Camalot I told him would be essential, he could have sent. <br />
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Our route finished by squeezing into the Medieval Alley feature from the north, thus joining the Tim Auger classic <i>Homage to the Spider.</i><br />
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Topping out was a real joy. The fact that we did not get fried like mosquitos in a Memphis zapper was really a bonus.<br />
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Descending was a joy as well, thanks to the hard working Rockies guides who equipped the egress for single rope raps.<br />
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Next Stop Rogers' Pass where we could only gaze on this Quartzite obelisk of justice<br />
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To the bluffs of Begbie with Nate MacDonald who showed off his rope access skills by making steep abseils<br />
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Steep and wild that's how they like it in Rev...<br />
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Thanks for a great trip lads!<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-63637940166541574902015-06-24T07:08:00.001-07:002015-06-24T16:29:23.398-07:00Cham: Part Deux<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span id="goog_1871705669"></span><span id="goog_1871705670"></span><br />
<span id="goog_1871705669">For my final few days in the zone I let out for the hills with Justin Sweeny intent on </span>getting up a summi or two. The weather was marginal and as we made our way to the Envers hut it was a miracle we found the way<br />
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Justin at the routefinding crux of the approach<br />
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L' Envers des Aiguilles is an incredible <i>secteur </i>if you like big pointy rocks<br />
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The views are ok too<br />
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Spot the climber on the Tour Rouge!<br />
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We attacked the Aiguille de La République at 3am and by 9:30 were 2/3rds of the way up<br />
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The higher we got, the more snow covered the rocks<br />
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This made our feet cold...<br />
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Positions = Mega!<br />
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But the weather went southbound<br />
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We managed a few more brisk pitches<br />
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Sometimes you just gotta say no...<br />
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And go back the way you came...<br />
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20 abseils later we reached <i>cappuccino</i> country but with wooden toes and frozen fingers, I couldn't help think this was all just a little <i>sauvage. </i>Climbing this peak felt more like a Patagonian burlfest than a relaxed jaunt into the 'pine that you'd expect from this region.<br />
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Back in town it was properly festive, one guy I met at <i>Elevation 1904 </i>described it as the best corner on Earth. I thought about it for a second, scanning my rolodex of fun places and then nodded in agreeance.<br />
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Thank you Chamonix!<br />
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<i> A la prochaine!</i></div>
Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-91422387292700359002015-06-18T03:40:00.000-07:002015-06-21T08:10:20.348-07:00Cham: Part Un<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Ah Chamonix.... this place more than any other is <i>the</i> global crucible of Alpine Justice. People have climbed in the mountains here for centuries. Initially, it was for the glory of the local despot, eventually people realized it would be popular <i>for ze laydees,</i> but mostly the <i>naissance </i>of Alpinism came about because a farmer needed to cross an icy slope to rescue his forlorn sheep.<br />
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Here is some of the equipment the cleverest farmers used<br />
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I love France...<br />
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Perhaps the single greatest reason why Frenchmen are better than the rest of us<br />
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Maybe also this....<br />
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I've come here for the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy, a long weekend <i>buffet </i>of mountain skills clinics, presentations and fun. It's been a pleasure to instruct some of these clinics with other sportspersons and some of Chamonix's finest guides.<br />
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This guy is a Swiss Rockstar, his name is Pesche and I really like him. He claims to be in the <i>Encore </i>phase of his climbing career, that's a modest way of telling me he still warms up on my projects. The tattoo on his arm says it all. A real prince of a man.<br />
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Working with French Guides is fun! If you can't enjoy a Gauloise and a helmet-free day of guiding you're not in France.<br />
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This chap had a bit of a <i>moment</i>!<br />
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His cam pried out no less than a metric tonne of the Brevent's finest stone.<br />
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Fortunately there was a bolt in the rock.....!<br />
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Being of Eastern European origin he was basically unscathed and not at all bothered<br />
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In France safety is paramount<br />
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Surprisingly, less than a half hour after I took this photo, one of these guys broke his leg trying to jib the guardrail at the Brevent lookout platform.<br />
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In general, France's laid back attitude towards risk is healthy, even these young children are encouraged to climb. It's as normal a trip to the <i>Boulangerie.</i><br />
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I took a break from the festivities to visit one of my great inspirations in Art and in climbing: Andy Parkin. If you haven't heard of him I think he prefers is that way but that's just part of why he's a <i>maestro</i>.<br />
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I gifted this sculpture to Andy and though he was only moderately moved, he graciously showed me around his incredible Gallery.<br />
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Andy with his work "Net Free Salmon"<br />
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Back to work with Marc-Andre and Brette; neither of these guys really needs a spotter<br />
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One day, the Academy took us to the <i>Mer de Glace</i> the fixed iron rungs and ladders on the approach were very civilized.<br />
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I was so moved by the civility of it all that halfway down the ladders I pulled off my rucksack to grab my camera and snap a shot of the action. As I did this, my ice axe loosened itself and clinked down the next step whizzing within a bees dick of no less than 30 people. What a douche move I thought, but as I made my way down the offending <i>échelle</i> no one seemed to have noticed. I collected my tool in the moraine below, bowed my head in shame and trotted over to the glacier to join the masses.<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-36684010665691166782015-05-22T11:30:00.001-07:002015-05-22T15:02:19.688-07:00East Coast Roadie<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It's been a whirlwind week. I flew to the US to shuttle my parents' car up to Toronto from the dismal state of Florida, where they spend their winters.<br />
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Lots of signs in FLA, so many that it's a wonder breathing isn't regulated. But let's not forget that these signs contribute to the economy and as the former Governor Jeb Bush would tell you: "Freedom isn't Free"<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeremy Collins image</td></tr>
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I heard the news about Dean and though I've only tied in with him once, I was touched by the loss of this prophetic tribesman. Dean understood the paradox of freedom in America...<br />
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I first met Dean in Rio Blanco campground a few hours after he shot this photo. His 6 hour solo <i>jihad </i>up the <i>Supercanaleta </i>on <i>Cerro Fitzroy</i> was mindblowing for a rookie like me and stood as proof of Chouinard's idiom that the walls of Yosemite were just a practice area for the greater ranges.<br />
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After only 16 hours behind the wheel, I put the flatlands and the box stores behind me, finding authentic signage in the great state of West Virginia.<br />
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Fayetteville is a charming town, teeming with Americana, far from the watered down strip malls of Florida<br />
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This sign was a sight for sore eyes...<br />
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Jessa Goebel and Pat Goodman graciously hosted me for a night and showed me around some superb cliffs at the world class New River Gorge.<br />
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Mike on a bullet 5.12 <br />
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The stone is as good a Lake Louise and more abundant than Skaha<br />
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Lewis at the wheel warming up on a techy 11c. Oh yeah, in the West that translates to about 12a. It's been more than a decade since I've had to hang on a 5.10 that wasn't iced up or slime ridden but sure as shit, I took a schoolin' at the New.<br />
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I'll be back to this place...<br />
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-59321862512594123192015-04-14T10:09:00.001-07:002015-04-16T19:48:53.144-07:00Home sweet Home<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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It's been a month since returning from the land of the Viking and I am really chuffed. Spring on the Coast is soooooo good, there's a bit of everything from flip flops to dangerous avalanche conditions. I've tried my hand at some of the work, which is remarkably popular among my peers. Fortunately, work has been "good" meaning that I've avoided sleeping in a tent and it is performed alongside amigos. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mischief personified: Captain of the <i>Sea Flea</i> Andrew Boyd</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Yacht Club</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Andrew took me out aboard his hearty vessel the <i>Sea Flea</i> to perform unpaid labour cleaning some projects at Squamish's hottest new cliff <i>The Yacht Club.</i><br />
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Other club members joined the fun and "came abreast" (excuse the improper nautical terminology, I'm only a 5.4 yachtsman). Elise Aspa enjoying some tick tackery above the deck of <i>The Polish Girl</i> with first mates Mike Duffey and Troy "the Shaman" Jungen. <i> </i><br />
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Climbing above the ocean is so much fun I returned with Bruce Kay and Luna - the ankle biting sheep dog.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bruce's boat is not as sturdy as the <i>Sea Flea</i></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anti-scurvy provisions and other less important stuff</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luna bites people then jumps in the water to avoid punishment</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yeeeearg</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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Next stop, some much needed work with Ross Berg shown here checking "weather updates"<br />
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Showing two youngsters and their dad a bit of the old neige, glace and mixed<br />
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More unpaid work with Klemen Mali a juggernaut of rock development.<br />
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I just got this 18 meter Gin Yak and finally got to launch it in moderate to strong winds - gripping...<br />
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Back to work doing camera safety <br />
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Fortunately these lads showed up for the gag and kept things demure. <br />
Will Gadd and Tim" 'ave it" Emmett climbing moist Murrin rockstone.<br />
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Yet another lap to the Tantalus. This round there were so many people coming and going it felt like an alpine<i> Shambala</i> without the dreadlocks and emotional refugees. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proper <i>plumage</i> </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Justin Lamoureux and Ross Berg getting western</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Whistler's that way"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sea to Summit - Mt. Serratus</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Something about climbing this type of terrain made me want to light up a Gauloise and be rude to anyone nearby.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Really though, authentic <i>goulottes </i>ten minutes from the Hut.</td></tr>
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Dropping down from the Alpine we had a surprise visit from Crosby and Rosie. Here, Crosby gets sandbagged by the stately Robin Barley, author of this "chipped" route.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Finally, some <i>plaisir</i> climbing. Sweet Helen on the runout 3rd pitch of <i>Centerfold</i></td></tr>
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Springtime in Squamish is really hard to beat...</div>
Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-31051551373956967012015-03-10T08:02:00.000-07:002015-03-11T10:36:00.878-07:00Norway Part 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After a week of fun, conditions got pretty dank for ice climbing so we visited some local villages and did some ski touring.<br />
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Norwegian Coastal culture has a flair all it's own. The names and locations of the communities are right out of a Tolkien fable.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Secretly we all wished for one of these Sparks</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The skiing conditions varied from boilerplate to breakable and occasional stretches of cornshussing. On the upside, the vistas were not bad and treeline is reached after about fifteen minutes of skinning. </div>
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Segla - The Sail - a BASE jumper's wet dream</div>
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Eventually, we got back to the business at hand..<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> "Fantasia" in the center and "Crazy Maze" at right. We took the left line.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Jesse and I tried our luck on the "Scotish wall" of Breidtinden, Senja's highest peak - a real Napolean at just 1000m in elevation. Ines Papert and Thomas Senf had opened "Crazy Maze" and <span class="_5yl5" data-reactid=".21.$mid=11425810331866=21bad2739ef562c7539.2:0.0.0.0.0"><span data-reactid=".21.$mid=11425810331866=21bad2739ef562c7539.2:0.0.0.0.0.0">Sjur Nesheim and partner had put up "Fantasia" using a 150m rope. Sjur explained this tactic was crucial because there is a general lack of protection and belays are hard to find at regular intervals.</span></span><br />
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<span class="_5yl5" data-reactid=".21.$mid=11425810331866=21bad2739ef562c7539.2:0.0.0.0.0"><span data-reactid=".21.$mid=11425810331866=21bad2739ef562c7539.2:0.0.0.0.0.0"> We settled on a route at the left side and blasted up amazing nevé and mixed climbing for seven pitches (two of those involved extensive simul climbing for reasons noted above) totalling 450m. </span></span><br />
<span class="_5yl5" data-reactid=".21.$mid=11425810331866=21bad2739ef562c7539.2:0.0.0.0.0"><span data-reactid=".21.$mid=11425810331866=21bad2739ef562c7539.2:0.0.0.0.0.0">The difficulties were not too severe M6+ AI 4+ but the thin, runnout ice and rock overlaps were consistently spicy.</span></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jesse about to insert the first of two pieces he found on this 60m pitch</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A tight belay for the first of several changing corners P.6</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Ice Princess M6+ AI 4+ R on Breidtinden </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Obligatory summit ridge fist pump.</td></tr>
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We descended off the back to avoid a regrettable amount of abseiling and hiked over two passes to regain the approach slopes and the car just about 13 hours after leaving it.<br />
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This trip was a life highlight for me and we only really just caught a glimpse of a small corner of this incredible country. Thanks to an all time crew for making this come together and keeping morale high.</div>
Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-65685480044876932362015-03-10T06:54:00.000-07:002015-03-11T08:25:01.313-07:00The Kit<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Here are a few clutch pieces I brought on my recent trip to Norway.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitpqOz0VHC_Tdeb-JRe0XwRn8-7_3xKpFAYV3VePeLUxkLNAaXIfUmyeFLCKX4RHnaZJcC4gmqwu565iIIw7smr5NJeC5a6NSc3Y6At63vu1VBQATDVO3REVMHkF6hdCutvp5AnjTgQ8Ts/s1600/P2191668.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitpqOz0VHC_Tdeb-JRe0XwRn8-7_3xKpFAYV3VePeLUxkLNAaXIfUmyeFLCKX4RHnaZJcC4gmqwu565iIIw7smr5NJeC5a6NSc3Y6At63vu1VBQATDVO3REVMHkF6hdCutvp5AnjTgQ8Ts/s1600/P2191668.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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The Alpha Comp system is a perfect solution for wet snowy mixed alpine climbing. Gore-Tex front and stretch back strikes the optimum balance between moisture protection and maneuverability. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtoM7efAuBWB-uR_vmy2QXwjq_alhcvRNDDPQ860Rkd4uPNcdPvh3fUZad9S35rS4teIuTgOPuR1qV5UZ6mTiGMRJ4c-ZgjX9vvejjY5wvHcCEAzqXr15-Gwa4MPVIrFqIN1-2secDklk2/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-03-10+at+6.21.51+AM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtoM7efAuBWB-uR_vmy2QXwjq_alhcvRNDDPQ860Rkd4uPNcdPvh3fUZad9S35rS4teIuTgOPuR1qV5UZ6mTiGMRJ4c-ZgjX9vvejjY5wvHcCEAzqXr15-Gwa4MPVIrFqIN1-2secDklk2/s1600/Screen+Shot+2015-03-10+at+6.21.51+AM.png" height="320" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alpha Comp Pant</td></tr>
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Manly, muscular thighs are not a problem with these beauties on. They combine freedom of movement with a snugness that remains popular in Europe and is catching on like wildfire in the New World.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ3k7PyU6MMp9iIX0w0fdWOzggIEhpsO1wxpCQxuW4DQZNqmhXzqtxY_OO5H1yH32EHfm0pzmgH_icCDfJWm2NCnzCUoejLHUNWFnJXTRNIuDTAsIrTAMWzK1Gj500Osd7AdTks3PGszj4/s1600/P3042267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQ3k7PyU6MMp9iIX0w0fdWOzggIEhpsO1wxpCQxuW4DQZNqmhXzqtxY_OO5H1yH32EHfm0pzmgH_icCDfJWm2NCnzCUoejLHUNWFnJXTRNIuDTAsIrTAMWzK1Gj500Osd7AdTks3PGszj4/s1600/P3042267.jpg" height="640" width="424" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jesse - snugness and flow together at last. </td></tr>
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The Alpha Comp Jacket is a lightweight piece that breathes really well and repels wind after a dropping the hammer up the summit slopes.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7vBzaLGuubtBi5aoBjnaVKshKAN2dFH4IP0KVG8phVFIR4bvYFFGrtO6oIvvp9pVg4AVKDW2lrarbm0qy4nJE8bYr8ILxwQ_jBJGw2EcOGNgp-JKjte-WDNMN3WOTXxIQQL15v7zV8WIy/s1600/P3022137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7vBzaLGuubtBi5aoBjnaVKshKAN2dFH4IP0KVG8phVFIR4bvYFFGrtO6oIvvp9pVg4AVKDW2lrarbm0qy4nJE8bYr8ILxwQ_jBJGw2EcOGNgp-JKjte-WDNMN3WOTXxIQQL15v7zV8WIy/s1600/P3022137.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Summit of Hesten</td></tr>
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The stretch fabric is tough for those times when the climbing gets scrappy<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4-9fdY8HRwmSFKiPkYA8UYowLOZ3uryfer5KMwvzoIhLmzOR9P96J1ANrBH_J-Td7gYX8U5woDbEFqXvI_cBuvs1ivdDVl4c56YX57Ae_SuY7QABCCHq3K3_tLl3u4y0mDGEB0CTFf6kI/s1600/P3042245.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4-9fdY8HRwmSFKiPkYA8UYowLOZ3uryfer5KMwvzoIhLmzOR9P96J1ANrBH_J-Td7gYX8U5woDbEFqXvI_cBuvs1ivdDVl4c56YX57Ae_SuY7QABCCHq3K3_tLl3u4y0mDGEB0CTFf6kI/s1600/P3042245.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></div>
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2284595070884098879.post-58970319034229808692015-03-10T06:14:00.000-07:002015-03-10T08:15:31.374-07:00Norway Part 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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After spending a decade of my life in the crucible of frozen waterfall justice: the Canadian Rockies, climbing ice anywhere else has never held much appeal. Though I'd long seen images of giant <i>Fossens</i> in Norway the thought of visiting there for winter climbing never inked it's way on to my wishlist. In October, Jon Walsh and Jesse Huey piqued my interest in a mission to Senja Island, not quite your standard Waterfall ice destination but rather, a velouté of Coastal, Alpine and Arctic terrain. Added to the crew would be all around under cover bringer Mike Pennings and lensmaster Paul Bride.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRv1QhoOef8yB0HKk1g6Aw6T2udBV29_fGeGf_igF_xgx5uAk9l3cEft26FIxOG5nuKNypvZVi3Bt10tui94Q1qIIKztuoebVTwUYXTzV_XHuvWeqXa96Z3Og6NeEt-E8zLzDPKezTfqI/s1600/P2221682.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBRv1QhoOef8yB0HKk1g6Aw6T2udBV29_fGeGf_igF_xgx5uAk9l3cEft26FIxOG5nuKNypvZVi3Bt10tui94Q1qIIKztuoebVTwUYXTzV_XHuvWeqXa96Z3Og6NeEt-E8zLzDPKezTfqI/s1600/P2221682.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crew</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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We arrived in Oslo late January and bumped to the military outpost of Bardufoss in the northern reaches of Norway. From there, a three hour rally on snowy roads brought us to Hamn i Senja our base for the following two weeks. We got right into it and over the next week, managed to get into some good trouble in this enchanted land of Trolls and Fjords.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMIL6KSsH7jmkFpvFG7dJBsyYSQoQcIlLidqyvTHnx0ALJBsei752SRL0Yolae0d6m3i-UD550ru4hsYK0XvT_gJZFpBscBThkTxsSQJagTqSHuvPmfkLo3wn-MjX8qgTGhBobvZqd8iKq/s1600/P2221674.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMIL6KSsH7jmkFpvFG7dJBsyYSQoQcIlLidqyvTHnx0ALJBsei752SRL0Yolae0d6m3i-UD550ru4hsYK0XvT_gJZFpBscBThkTxsSQJagTqSHuvPmfkLo3wn-MjX8qgTGhBobvZqd8iKq/s1600/P2221674.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fjordcountry</td></tr>
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While Jesse and Jonny jumped right on to the "Terminator wall of Senja" Finnmannen, climbing a grade 6 monster and attempting Ines Papert's still unrepeated M9+ masterpiece, Mike and I warmed up with some "mini-putt" on a route reminiscent of Polar Circus.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heston</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWIhQn-VqZWeGumob8LoU84j7N8ZmKKixsVNH6OgTM1_H9DpUK3yHHO5weSLi9ob1qjgY85SPlMo3jOQNfcUlp38HMJEhVI9mLG4wZUSJj6Cx-GiArNFduwu7n3kZDgN3dnaQE_rxfDvwU/s1600/P2261777.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWIhQn-VqZWeGumob8LoU84j7N8ZmKKixsVNH6OgTM1_H9DpUK3yHHO5weSLi9ob1qjgY85SPlMo3jOQNfcUlp38HMJEhVI9mLG4wZUSJj6Cx-GiArNFduwu7n3kZDgN3dnaQE_rxfDvwU/s1600/P2261777.jpg" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike on the Polar Circus of Senja<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivpSz-T0dn4WW1OYLD9osOUspEXCZXZUYaweS4LoW2f1uBEpMuqV7yaoszkVDvXzI-rIdlvYwkJZDKsLrTwaTItRDAZ1mj_xYG6CnsHJuV-Hjof7BRubMAPCutspbrt3Vq2joANkOaVQf2/s1600/P2261814.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivpSz-T0dn4WW1OYLD9osOUspEXCZXZUYaweS4LoW2f1uBEpMuqV7yaoszkVDvXzI-rIdlvYwkJZDKsLrTwaTItRDAZ1mj_xYG6CnsHJuV-Hjof7BRubMAPCutspbrt3Vq2joANkOaVQf2/s1600/P2261814.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the summi slopes</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_2HHaSGYaoG_E43LKqZnaMd9ObXME-WomhmrvUgKlFf1Rdzzy7UvhFNtTACcvo8TJS_Wfzta3egnCEksgsh-UIZgJphdeVjJAyz_glwFHRrujIkqL2nOZN8wxmTpSNMPLLIFCjD48yreG/s1600/P2261827.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_2HHaSGYaoG_E43LKqZnaMd9ObXME-WomhmrvUgKlFf1Rdzzy7UvhFNtTACcvo8TJS_Wfzta3egnCEksgsh-UIZgJphdeVjJAyz_glwFHRrujIkqL2nOZN8wxmTpSNMPLLIFCjD48yreG/s1600/P2261827.jpg" height="425" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mike would later pump and drop a hot lap on the compelling couloir at left. </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcMibNmclx11l_mJ1JYbiQ5JcirUi50D42-dFUv5XQZ2d2IKpE-bEx1rwlUAJs9MxjX_qnnlWNot3-YAcFzmtni8dBQAYxGq5FB9bvgddHhg0dPEyE0sTfPcnGpdpxopApo_o4Xv7aToFD/s1600/P2241781.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcMibNmclx11l_mJ1JYbiQ5JcirUi50D42-dFUv5XQZ2d2IKpE-bEx1rwlUAJs9MxjX_qnnlWNot3-YAcFzmtni8dBQAYxGq5FB9bvgddHhg0dPEyE0sTfPcnGpdpxopApo_o4Xv7aToFD/s1600/P2241781.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> Fjord villages: far from uncharming</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFaHOLpTwG0BtCGKeJyV4mtarmCFCOVcxglmsRyIIP221vRiWUER8pdjtkZQL_upe3Hwg6EzYDmJAEaeIs173ZvtJaFFOcV-xeD2c_0UWB5btO0Be9Y3K8FHUXnZiE2TAM_kVKlKINy2e2/s1600/P2241808.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFaHOLpTwG0BtCGKeJyV4mtarmCFCOVcxglmsRyIIP221vRiWUER8pdjtkZQL_upe3Hwg6EzYDmJAEaeIs173ZvtJaFFOcV-xeD2c_0UWB5btO0Be9Y3K8FHUXnZiE2TAM_kVKlKINy2e2/s1600/P2241808.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ditto for the locals<br />
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<br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibClyTnUJMs0Sn0IUDtcrmqUat3NmRcpnpH_tIbZII55fow9B0g62mMtps3dQgX2bQFISGQ8Q3Ho6lAhOlkO-zn15vJYk7j5CHs4dmRaFj28fhf5m9vdYahDedNLOWDxABB4aGc1uzy0TW/s1600/P2271867.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibClyTnUJMs0Sn0IUDtcrmqUat3NmRcpnpH_tIbZII55fow9B0g62mMtps3dQgX2bQFISGQ8Q3Ho6lAhOlkO-zn15vJYk7j5CHs4dmRaFj28fhf5m9vdYahDedNLOWDxABB4aGc1uzy0TW/s1600/P2271867.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reformed BC resident Charlie Long showed up for some fun</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyWW3g5p3YuOwcXJZ2saRnz1m9blNAlVPkLglfmfXVAvUUs9FyeMxd00w2vlhodM3q15dj99TbDr1sDREIIHynpJc1PSWVSmePYWo4ryYXX9ZrZ1sQiDBjfqUoqDlZy2U4dPOxDnzA8CZc/s1600/P2271896.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyWW3g5p3YuOwcXJZ2saRnz1m9blNAlVPkLglfmfXVAvUUs9FyeMxd00w2vlhodM3q15dj99TbDr1sDREIIHynpJc1PSWVSmePYWo4ryYXX9ZrZ1sQiDBjfqUoqDlZy2U4dPOxDnzA8CZc/s1600/P2271896.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charlie has not regretted expatriation </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-khb0uG3PmQQwTYb39A1nh_8a6a64RQ1d7al7FYYz9Aa2inBBwK5foyunQCP2rglfzxfVUcOpwx6jOItVVAujSS1lP2hp2aDwIBVEQ0krM06txm3Cm7MaRGiaJmwYhTmbFWCEkWtSu3q/s1600/P3012020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-khb0uG3PmQQwTYb39A1nh_8a6a64RQ1d7al7FYYz9Aa2inBBwK5foyunQCP2rglfzxfVUcOpwx6jOItVVAujSS1lP2hp2aDwIBVEQ0krM06txm3Cm7MaRGiaJmwYhTmbFWCEkWtSu3q/s1600/P3012020.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">During a break on a recon mish. Norway is ok</td></tr>
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Paul McSorleyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12821827894533989222noreply@blogger.com0