Thursday, 23 February 2017


Jas Ammerlaan and Seba De La Rosa making the FA of the Spirit Bear icewall

There is nothing so pleasant as ice climbing at sea level, so it comes as no surprise that my backyard is where I enjoy winter climbing  the most.   Thirty years have passed since a true Icepocalypse thwarted the village of Squamish.  Back then, it was straight shafts, leather boots and bearded men only.  These days at least some of the sisters have joined in on the fun.

                                  Katia Voyeur making the second ascent of "Depends -a- lot falls"

There were First Ascents o' plenty:  Jia makes the signature move on the ephemeral and somewhat inappropriate "Gropper"

"Squamish Groomjob" pumpy as can be!

This beauty pillar, "Eagle Eyes" was spotted by Jia during one of many highway 99 scope missions

I didn't have to go far to spy this Squamish uber classic, visible from my deck, "Two minutes for hooking" is more fun than Hockey Night in Canada and delivers excitement until the buzzer sounds.

I jerseyed up with Tony Mac and Willy Stan for a repeat of this Boyd/Flett gem before the Coastal Zamboni finished it off two days later.  The final pitch went down with the sun and I heard a few rare grunts from the lungs of Tony as he battled up the final steep Medusa of Ice.

      We avoided the penalty box and enjoyed the superbe finish as the alpenglow kissed us goodnight (Will Stanhope Photo)

      Visible outside Tony Richardson's living room window, this line on the Chief beckoned like a yodeler from the Krummholz

        Jason K like a thief in the night, sneaking off Broadway ledge via some thin dribbles.

           Pitch 1 of the Ultimate Ultimate Everything: Perfect neve and sticks (Tony Richardson Photo)

                              Jason seconding the Chamonix caliber goulottes (Jia Condon Photo)

                                        Tony STOKED on the crux pitch (Jia Condon Photo)

It's always a gift when your heroes become your partners.  After all these years Jia still wants some.

Hard to beat this position above the Fjord

Thank you Squamish and thank you my friends!  What a season!!!

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